The Vermonter, a luxurious Winter glide from Washington DC to St Albans, Vermont.
Your journey begins from the snow dusted Penn station, Manhattan. You cruise Northwards past the whitened landscape and by the time you reach Hartford, Connecticut the snow has softened out the rough edges in a carpet several inches thick. The carriages begin to feel the effects of the cold as the snow builds up between them and rows of pretty icicles adorn the exposed surfaces. The line follows the valley of the Connecticut river and offers fine views of the Green Mountains on the Eastern side. The train passes frozen lakes dotted with the huts of ice fishermen trying their luck. The cosy cafe bar is full of the excited chatter of skiers on their way to the mountain runs at Ascutney, Bear Creek and Stowe. As night falls the landscape is bathed in pale moonlight and the train passes close by Naulakha, the onetime home of Rudyard Kipling and the place where he penned the stories of Mowgli and his Jungle Book adventures.
The excursion ends at St Albans. Here there is a range of accommodation available but very popular are the modestly priced Bed and Breakfast places that abound within a short taxi ride of the station. Should you wish to continue the journey there is a bus connection on to Montreal. The Adirondack, a leisurely ride North from New York and across the border to French influenced Montreal.
The Adirondack runs all through the year and there is plenty to see in every season. However, this trip was in the chilly early Spring so there was no use for the open cars that are popular in the warmer months. The journey begins in the functional but businesslike surroundings of Penn Station. The weather of late has been warmer and the snow that has blanketed the countryside recently has begun to thaw. However, this should take nothing away from the spectacular views you are expecting as the train winds it’s unhurried way North. The train hoots to signal it’s departure and you wind your way out through Yonkers and into open country. The scenery becomes more rugged as you approach Storm King Mountain crossing land that was hotly contested during the Revolutionary War. Franklin D Roosevelt had his house in these parts and the West Point Military Academy is not far away. At Hudson the views of the Catskill Mountains slide by.
The line skirts the edge of Lake Champlain, it’s shores dotted with log cabins, pine woodlands and despite it being Spring, still frozen beaches. The cold obviously keeping ‘Champy’ the legendary lake monster out of sight today! The station at Rouse’s Point marks the border into French Canada and you can begin to look forward to elegant patisseries, fine cheeses and chocolate in Montreal. Fortunately, if you have booked your accommodation at the Queen Elizabeth Hotel above the Gare Centralle and so will not even have to venture out into the cold at the end of your journey. The Downeaster, a short but magical journey along the New England coast between Boston and Portland.
Leaving Boston’s North Station behind the train runs at a leisurely pace through picturesque woodlands passing small towns and villages of white clapboard houses. Short stops at Exeter, Durham and Dover show the New England architecture at it’s best. The station at Wells Beach is just a short hop from the Bush family’s favourite vacation spot of Kennebunkport. You get your first glimpse of the sea at Old Orchard Beach shortly before pulling into your final destination of Portland. Once there take the time to explore the older parts of town walking across cobbled streets and sampling the delightful seafood restaurants down by the harbour. Trips by boat out to Calender Islands are available although you can leave these delights for another time.
A fantastic way to explore Canada is by train. Stunning scenery and destined to become one of the well known world travel journeys. I won’t even mention the old volcano, the amazing waterfall, snow capped peaks, an ocean inlet and of course forests covering mountain peaks
The Rocky Mountaineer Group has launched a new service called the ‘Whistler Mountaineer’. This round trip journey can be undertaken in a day. It takes six hours and covers 140 miles. A day , you will never forget.
The train travels, north from Vancouver, along an underused freight line. It travels along the coastline of British Columbia until it arrives in Whistler, the world famous ski resort. Whistler is an all year round resort which offers skiing and other outdoor activities. If you choose a different itinerary then you can choose to extend your stay in Whistler.
North American trains are big. You can choose from two types of carriage on the Whistler Mountaineer, the Coast Classic and the Glacier Dome. The Glacier Dome is the more luxurious.
This journey leaves from the North Vancouver dockside at 8.30 am. The port is very busy but you are warmly welcomed by staff in uniform. Very quickly North Vancouver is left behind and you view the backyards of homes in the prosperous West Vancouver. As you enjoy your breakfast you will notice how relaxed people are as they go about their daily tasks.
The train leaves West Vancouver through a tunnel at Horseshoe Bay and then you can begin to enjoy the scenery. The train travels high alongside the Pacific Ocean. There is an onboard commentary which tells about the history of the coastline and of the train company. The train driver is very accommodating and slows down at points that are worth taking photographs of.
For a different experience, travel for part of the journey in the Henry Pickering. This is an open-sided observation car that was commissioned in 1914. Looking to the west it allows you to view the southernmost fjord in Canada, Howe Sound. By looking out towards the East you will see that the rock face has disappeared and you are now looking at waterfalls that are being fed by glaciers and valleys that are inaccessible. Travelling in the open carriage also gives you the opportunity to take in all the fragrances of the surrounding forest.
When the train reaches the old logging town, Squamish, it begins to head inland and starts the climb up into the coastal mountain range. Slowly it travels along the edge of the Cheakamus Canyon. You can see the most spectacular waterfall as it cascades down the high rocks surrounding it. In the distance you can see the 3000 metre peaks of Mount Garibaldi. At this point the train travels across a single-track trestle bridge, If you are brave enough to look down you will see the water raging beneath as it traverses the jagged rocks.
Once out of the canyon the scenery opens up again. The train crosses Brandywine Falls and into the Canada you see on postcards. You will see lakes and forests nestling beneath the snow capped mountain peaks. If you are not extending your stay, then you only have a stopover of one and a half hours. This gives you enough time to enjoy lunch at one of the outside cafes. Once you have taken your fill of fresh air and good food it is time to board the train for your return journey.
As the train heads back for Vancouver and we leave the mountains behind a whole new view is opened up. It is seen through a totally different perspective.
On returning to Vancouver you will want to continue exploring Canada by train as it is one of the most breathtaking experiences you will have.